How to Lace Dress Shoes: The Detail Most Men Miss That Well-Dressed Men Never Do

There are three correct ways to lace a pair of dress shoes — straight bar lacing, criss cross lacing, and display (or Berluti) lacing — and each one signals something different about the shoe and the man wearing it. Straight bar lacing is the most formal, used almost exclusively on Oxford shoes where the laced sides are closed and a clean horizontal pattern reads as deliberate and considered. Criss cross is the standard practical lacing used across Oxfords, Derbies, and most dress shoes, and is correct by default when no other signal is needed. Display lacing creates a diagonal or symmetrical pattern primarily used on shoes with exposed lacing as a quiet style statement rather than a functional requirement.

Almost every man wearing dress shoes today is using criss cross lacing without having chosen it — it is simply what came pre-laced from the shop, and it has never occurred to him that an alternative exists. This is not a failure of taste. It is a gap in information that this guide closes completely — including which lacing belongs on which shoe, and the technique to execute each one correctly.

Why Lacing Technique Is a Real Detail, Not a Triviality

There is a category of menswear detail that separates men who have developed a genuine eye for clothing from men who dress competently without quite arriving at the next level. Lacing technique sits firmly in that category.

The reason it matters is not aesthetic complexity — it is signal. A shoe laced with straight bar technique on a formal Oxford communicates, to anyone who recognises it, that the wearer has considered every element of the shoe rather than simply purchasing it and walking out of the shop. It is a quiet, specific signal — the kind that the average observer does not consciously register but that a genuinely well-dressed man notices immediately, because he has made the same decision himself.

This is also, practically, one of the easiest high-impact changes available in a man’s wardrobe. Unlike a tailoring adjustment or a new pair of shoes entirely, relacing a pair of dress shoes costs nothing beyond five minutes and, in some cases, a replacement lace. The return on that five minutes — in how the shoe reads to anyone who understands the detail — is disproportionately high.

Understanding the Shoe Before the Lace: Open vs Closed Lacing

Before any lacing method can be chosen correctly, the construction of the shoe itself needs to be understood — because it determines which lacing methods are even appropriate.

Closed lacing (Oxford construction): The eyelet facings are stitched underneath the vamp of the shoe, meaning the two sides of the lacing close completely flat when tightened, with no gap visible between them. This is the construction of a true Oxford shoe and is the most formal lacing structure in men’s footwear. Closed lacing is what makes straight bar lacing possible and correct.

Open lacing (Derby/Blucher construction): The eyelet facings are sewn on top of the vamp as separate pieces, meaning the two sides never close completely flat — there is always a slight V-shape gap at the top of the lacing even when fully tightened. This is the construction of a Derby or Blucher shoe. Open lacing accommodates a wider foot more comfortably than closed lacing and is considered marginally less formal as a result, though the difference in 2026 is largely academic outside of the most traditional formal contexts.

Identifying which construction your shoe has is the first step. If the laced sides close completely flat with no V-gap, it is an Oxford and straight bar lacing is available to you. If a slight gap remains regardless of how tightly you lace it, it is a Derby and straight bar lacing will not lie flat correctly — criss cross or display lacing is the appropriate choice.

Method 1: Straight Bar Lacing — The Most Formal Option

Straight bar lacing, sometimes called Berluti lacing after the French shoemaker most associated with popularising it, produces a clean series of horizontal bars across the front of the shoe with minimal diagonal crossing visible from above.

Where it belongs: Exclusively on Oxford shoes with closed lacing construction. This is the single most important rule in this entire guide — straight bar lacing on an open-laced Derby will not lie correctly and will look like a mistake rather than a deliberate choice. On a true Oxford, it is the most formal lacing option available and is the standard at black tie and the most formal business or ceremonial contexts.

How to execute it:

Start by threading the lace from the back of the bottom two eyelets, so both ends emerge on the top side at the bottom of the shoe — this is the opposite of how most laces come pre-threaded.
Take the left end and pass it straight up through the inside of the next eyelet on the left side, so it emerges on the top.
Take that same end and cross it straight across to the corresponding eyelet on the right side, threading it from the top down through the inside.
Repeat: thread up through the inside of the next eyelet on the same side, then straight across to the opposite side, threading down through the inside.
Continue this pattern — up through the inside, straight across, down through the inside, up through the inside on the new side — until you reach the top eyelets.
Tie a standard knot or bow at the top. The result, viewed from above, is a series of clean horizontal lines with the diagonal connecting sections hidden on the underside of the shoe.

The detail that separates correct from incorrect: The diagonal connecting threads should be invisible from above — visible only if you lift the lace slightly or look from underneath. If your finished lacing shows visible diagonal lines on the top surface, the threading direction was reversed at some point in the sequence. Unlace and restart, paying close attention to whether each pass goes up through the inside of the eyelet or down through the inside — this is the detail most men get backwards on the first attempt.

Method 2: Criss Cross Lacing — The Practical Default

Criss cross lacing is the pattern most dress shoes come pre-laced with from the shop, and for the majority of contexts it remains entirely correct.

Where it belongs: Both Oxford and Derby construction. Business contexts, smart casual contexts, and any formal occasion that does not specifically call for the elevated formality of straight bar lacing. This is the safe, universally appropriate default.

How to execute it:

Thread both ends of the lace through the bottom two eyelets from the back, so both ends emerge on the top at the bottom.
Cross the left end over to the opposite top-side eyelet, one level up, threading from the top down through the inside.
Cross the right end over to the opposite top-side eyelet, one level up, threading from the top down through the inside.
Continue this alternating crossing pattern — left crosses up and over to the right, right crosses up and over to the left — all the way to the top eyelets.
The result is the classic X pattern visible on most dress and casual shoes. It is correct, it is expected, and on a well-fitted, well-maintained shoe it requires no further justification.

The one upgrade worth making: Even within criss cross lacing, tension matters more than most men realise. The lace should be snug enough that the shoe holds the foot securely without any gapping at the eyelets, but not so tight that it puckers the leather between eyelets. Lace from the bottom up, pulling each crossing taut as you go, rather than threading the entire lace loosely and trying to tighten it retroactively from the top.

Method 3: Display Lacing — The Quiet Style Statement

Display lacing refers to a category of decorative lacing patterns — diagonal, ladder, or spiral arrangements — used specifically on shoes designed to show the lacing as a visual feature rather than conceal it functionally.

Where it belongs: Shoes with exposed lacing as a design element — certain boots, some contemporary Derby designs, and dress shoes specifically constructed with wider eyelet spacing intended to showcase the lace pattern. This is not the correct choice for a traditional Oxford or a conservative business Derby — applying display lacing to a shoe not designed for it reads as a mistake rather than a style choice, precisely because the eyelet spacing and shoe design will not support the pattern correctly.

The most common display pattern — diagonal ladder:

Thread both ends through the bottom eyelets from the back, emerging on top.
Take the left end and thread it straight up through the inside of the next eyelet on the same side — no crossing yet.
Take that end and cross diagonally to the eyelet one level up on the opposite side, threading from the top down through the inside.
From there, thread straight up the same side to the next eyelet, then cross diagonally again.

This produces a pattern of short straight segments alternating with diagonal crosses, creating a distinctly different visual rhythm from both straight bar and standard criss cross lacing — more textured, more obviously deliberate, appropriate specifically on shoes built to showcase it.

The honest assessment: Display lacing is the method most likely to be executed incorrectly because it requires a shoe specifically suited to it. Before attempting it, confirm that your shoe’s eyelet spacing and overall design are intended for a visible lace pattern rather than a discreet one. When in doubt, criss cross is always the safer and still entirely correct choice.

Lace Material and Length: The Details Beneath the Technique

The lacing method only works correctly with the right lace itself.

Flat cotton or waxed cotton laces are the standard for dress shoes — they hold a knot well, sit flat against the leather without bulk, and read as appropriately formal. Round laces, more common on boots and casual shoes, are too casual in character for a formal Oxford regardless of how correctly they are threaded.

Length matters more than most men account for. A lace too long produces an untidy excess that has to be tucked or double-knotted awkwardly. A lace too short cannot be tied with a proper bow. For a standard five or six-eyelet Oxford, a lace between 27 and 32 inches is typically correct — check the specific eyelet count on your shoe, as more eyelets require a longer lace.

Colour should match the shoe, not stand in contrast to it, with the narrow exception of a deliberately contrasting lace as a specific style choice on a casual shoe — never on a formal Oxford or business Derby, where the lace should be functionally invisible in colour, drawing attention only through the correctness of the pattern itself.

What Lacing Choice Signals in Different Contexts

The practical question most men actually have once they understand the three methods: which one, for which occasion?

Black tie and formal ceremonial occasions: Straight bar lacing on a black Oxford is the standard. If your shoe is an Oxford with closed lacing, this is the correct choice without exception.

Business and professional contexts: Criss cross is entirely appropriate and remains the default for good reason — it is correct, unremarkable, and signals nothing beyond competent dressing, which is precisely what a business context requires. Straight bar lacing in a business context is not wrong, but it is a more deliberate, slightly more formal choice than the context strictly requires — appropriate if you want the extra precision, unnecessary if you do not.

Smart casual and weekend contexts: Criss cross remains correct on a Derby or Oxford worn in this register. Display lacing, where the shoe supports it, is the most contextually appropriate of the three methods for a smart casual occasion specifically because its decorative quality matches the more relaxed formality of the context.

For occasions where the dress code itself is uncertain — and the shoe choice, lacing included, needs to be calibrated precisely — the Dress Code Decoder translates any stated dress code into a complete outfit with formality guidance, removing the uncertainty before the shoes are even laced.

Maintaining the Lacing Once It's Correct

A correctly laced shoe degrades in appearance if the lacing itself is neglected.

Laces stretch and loosen with wear. A lace that held a clean, taut straight bar or criss cross pattern when new will gradually loosen — particularly at the bottom eyelets, which bear the most tension during walking. Re-tighten from the bottom up periodically, working any slack out toward the top before retying.

Replace laces before they fray. A frayed or visibly worn lace undermines an otherwise correctly executed lacing pattern immediately. Keep a spare pair of the correct length and material on hand — laces are inexpensive and the failure point is entirely avoidable.

Unlace fully before polishing. Polish worked around a fully laced shoe inevitably misses the leather beneath the crossing points and along the tongue. Unlacing fully — not just loosening — before a proper polish ensures complete coverage, and is also the moment to inspect the lace itself for wear.

The Detail That Completes the Outfit

A correctly laced pair of dress shoes is the kind of detail that very few people will consciously notice and the rare few who do will register immediately and specifically. That asymmetry — low visibility, high signal value to the people who matter — is exactly what makes it worth the five minutes required to get right.

It belongs in the same category as the internal logic running through the rest of this Sharp Wardrobe series: knowing precisely how to measure a suit jacket, how to iron a dress shirt correctly, how to style a loafer for the occasion it is built for. None of these are difficult. All of them are details that most men never learn, and that well-dressed men never skip.

For the broader philosophy behind this kind of precision — choosing intention over expense, fit over flash — Classy Style Men: The Exact Formula Behind Looking Expensive Without Spending It covers the complete framework this detail belongs to.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the correct way to lace dress shoes?

There are three correct methods for lacing dress shoes, each appropriate for a different context. Straight bar lacing produces clean horizontal lines and is the most formal option, used exclusively on Oxford shoes with closed lacing construction — appropriate for black tie and formal ceremonial occasions. Criss cross lacing is the standard practical default, correct on both Oxford and Derby shoes across business and smart casual contexts. Display lacing creates a decorative diagonal or ladder pattern and is appropriate specifically on shoes designed with wider eyelet spacing to showcase the lace as a visual feature. The correct method depends on both the shoe’s construction and the formality of the occasion.

What is the difference between straight lacing and criss cross lacing on dress shoes?

Straight bar lacing produces a series of horizontal lines across the front of the shoe with the connecting diagonal threads hidden on the underside, requiring an Oxford shoe with closed lacing construction to lie correctly flat. Criss cross lacing produces the familiar X pattern visible on most dress shoes and works on both Oxford and Derby construction. Straight bar lacing is more formal and more deliberate — it signals that the wearer has specifically chosen this detail rather than left the shoe as it came from the shop. Criss cross is the safe, universally correct default appropriate across the widest range of occasions.

Can you use straight bar lacing on Derby shoes?

No, not correctly. Straight bar lacing requires closed lacing construction, where the eyelet facings are stitched beneath the vamp so the two sides of the shoe close completely flat when laced. Derby and Blucher shoes have open lacing construction, where the eyelet facings sit on top of the vamp as separate pieces — this means a slight V-shaped gap remains at the top of the lacing regardless of tension, which prevents straight bar lacing from lying flat correctly. Criss cross or display lacing are the appropriate choices for Derby construction.

How do I know if my dress shoes have open or closed lacing?

Look at how the two sides of the lacing meet when the shoe is fully laced and tightened. On closed lacing (Oxford construction), the two sides meet completely flat with no gap, because the eyelet facings are stitched beneath the vamp as a single continuous piece. On open lacing (Derby or Blucher construction), a small V-shaped gap remains visible at the top of the lacing even when fully tightened, because the eyelet facings are separate pieces sewn on top of the vamp. This distinction determines which lacing methods will lie correctly on your specific shoe.

What type of lace should I use for dress shoes?

Flat cotton or waxed cotton laces are correct for dress shoes — they sit flat against the leather without bulk and hold a knot securely, reading as appropriately formal. Round laces are too casual in character for formal Oxfords or business Derbies regardless of lacing technique. Lace length should match the eyelet count of the shoe — typically 27 to 32 inches for a standard five or six-eyelet Oxford, with more eyelets requiring a longer lace. Colour should match the shoe rather than contrast with it on any formal or business shoe

Five minutes and the correct method is the entire cost of this detail. The return is a pair of dress shoes that read as considered rather than simply purchased — which is, in the end, the difference this whole series is built around.

Next in the Sharp Wardrobe series: The Gentleman’s Guide to Styling Loafers | Classy Style Men | Smart Casual Men Outfit (coming soon)